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Destinations: Mountaineering on the Highest Point in North America

Here''s where you find out what it takes to make it to the top of North America and climb in the Alaska Range. Denali (The High One) is the Native American word for North America''s highest peak, Mount McKinley, rising 20,320 feet (6,194m) in the mountain chain called the Alaska Range.Mountaineering History
Though Mt. McKinley can be seen from Anchorage on a clear day, its base is deep in the Alaska Range. Early 1900 explorers used river boats, mules and dog sleds to gain access to the mountain''s glaciers in order to establish base camps.

Beginning in 1932 plane access to climb Mt. McKinley began saving the mountaineers a few months travel time. That same year, bush pilot Joe Crosson set the "Cosmic Ray" Party down at the 5,700-foot level of the Muldrow Glacier. Coincidentally, two members of this party became the mountain''s first fatalities during the descent.

22 years later, in 1954, pilot Don Sheldon flew the first commercial flight from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Glacier which has become the norm for most McKinley climbers beginning their expeditions.Mountaineering Today

  1. Registration and Fee: Climbers on Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker are charged a special use fee of $150 per climber. This offsets costs related to rescues such as maintaining the high altitude ranger station, staff and helicopter. In addition to the special use fee, a 60 day pre-registration regulation allows mountaineering rangers to have direct contact with climbers before they arrive in Talkeetna. In doing so, rangers are able to suggest appropriate routes for different levels of expertise and offer first hand knowledge of conditions encountered in the Alaska Range.
  2. Check-in: All Denali and Mt. Foraker climbers must stop by the Talkeetna Ranger Station for an orientation and briefing prior to their departure for their expedition.
  3. Check-Out: Upon your return from the mountains you must immediately check out with the Talkeetna Ranger Station.
  4. Garbage: Everything taken into the park must be brought out of the backcountry when you leave.
  5. Human Waste: Follow the instructions provided by rangers on proper human waste disposal. Use pit toilets where provided. Elsewhere, biodegradable bags are used for latrines. Plan on bringing additional bags for this use.
  6. Guiding: If you plan to climb with a guide, make sure the guide is authorized to operate within Denali National Park and Preserve. There are 7 guide service companies authorized to provide this service. If you have questions about your guide, please call the Talkeetna Ranger Station.

The National Park Service wishes to notify climbers and mountaineers that they should expect that these regulations are strictly enforced. Climbers who are not pre-registered a minimum of 60 days in advance will be denied permission to climb Mount McKinley or Mount Foraker. Our goal is that you have a safe journey while climbing in the Alaska Range.

In addition, information packets containing information about these regulations and registration forms are available by contacting the Talkeetna Ranger Station at (907) 733-2231.

Learn more.



Adapted from Denali National Park
- Denali NP


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