Mt. McKinley
Though Mt. McKinley (Denali) can be seen from Anchorage on a clear day, its base lies deep in the Alaska Range. At 20,320 feet (6194m) it is the highest point in North America. The summit is not exceedingly high by Himalayan standards, but it has many inherent challenges. Denali renders the climber more hypoxic as the barometric pressure, and therefore the oxygen level, is lower for a given altitude than on mountains closer to the equator (such as the Himalaya). The difference becomes noticeable above 10,000 feet, and makes the summit of Denali equivalent to the 21,000 to 23,000-foot level in the Himalaya, depending on weather conditions.
Climbing Denali is increasingly popular, with 1183 climbers in 1999. In a typical year, 50% of climbers reach the summit. Over 75% of those climbing are on the West Buttress. And beware -- the weather can be brutal. From 100+F in the sun on the Kahiltna Glacier to far below 0F in the higher camps, the temperature swings are extreme. Be prepared for extreme wind, massive snowfalls, and sporadic windows of beautiful weather. Thus, even though the West Buttress may not be very technical, the conditons can make it extremely challenging.
Permit Information
There is a mandatory 60-day preregistration period for climbing on Mt. McKinley. A Mountaineering Special Use Fee of $150 ($25 non-refundable) is charged each climber. Each climber must check in at Talkeetna Ranger Station before commencing the expedition.
Directions
There are frequent flights from Anchorage to the town of Talkeetna, which is located 114 road miles north of Anchorage on a highway that is maintained year-round. Flight services from Talkeetna to the Kahiltna glacier are readily available.
Information Center
The National Park Service maintains a ranger station in Talkeetna, Alaska. The station is staffed full-time from April through September and intermittently the rest of the year. Mountaineering rangers live in Talkeetna year-round.
Activities